Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many a people have had golden footprints across their lawn Plastic Container Manufacturers because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.
This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the Round Up can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the Round Up, don't do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That's three very long days. I know you're anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.
Round Up is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you're waiting.
After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don't let 'em fool ya. They're as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn't get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart's content.
However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15". Just peel off about 1" and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non-chemical method.
Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15", just like above. Since you aren't using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2" when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non-chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.
Put 8 to 12" of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you've got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.
This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:
Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you've got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.
Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you've visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn't have to be screened, but there is little of that quality topsoil to be had.
When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it's hot and dry.
Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don't want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that's what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it's probably good soil.
Put 6-8" of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn't get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I've found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.
I've got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I've never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don't know, but I've been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.
It's something to think about. What I'm really trying to say is don't get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.
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